Secret Paths Mitts

MITTS

X ounces/ X yards of worsted weight yarn
G, H, I, and J hooks

Body of Mitt
With I hook:
Ch 27, leave a 2” tail at end of ch.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as a dc), skip first ch, dc in back bump* (see note at end of pattern) of all the other chains. (27 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, fpdc across to last stitch, dc in last stitch. (27 dc)  (This is the inside of the mitt, putting the texture on the outsite.)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, bpdc across to last stitch, dc in last stitch, ch 5, sl st to top of first ch 3 (27 dc and 5 chains) (This is the outside of the mitt, the side with texture.)
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), Dc in 4 ch spaces, dc in each stitch around, slip stitch to top of first ch3 (32 dc)
Row 5: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), skip first dc, dc in all other stitches. (32 dc)
Note: It doesn’t matter if you turn on the rows, all that matters is that the ridges formed by the post stitches are always on the outside of the mitt.
Row 6: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, fpdc in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3. (32 dc)
Row 7: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, bpdc in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3 (32 dc)
Switch to H hook
Row 8: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, dc in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3 (32 dc)
Row 9: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, dc in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3 (32 dc)
Switch to G hook
Row 10: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, dc2 tog in first two dc, dc in all other stitches to last two, dc2tog, sl st to top of first ch 3 (30 dc)
Row 11: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, dc2 tog in next four stitches, dc in all other stitches to last four, dc2tog twice, sl st to top of first ch 3 (26 dc)

Rows 12-13-14: Ch 2 (counts as a dc), turn (outside of mitt), skip first dc, fpdc in next stitch, [bpdc, fpdc] in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3. (26 dc)
Switch back to H hook
Row 15, 16, 17, 18: Ch 2 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, bpdc in next stitch, [fpdc, bpdc] in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3. (26 dc)
Switch back to I hook
Row 19, 20, 21, 22: Ch 2 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, bpdc in next stitch, [fpdc, bpdc] in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3. (26 dc)
Switch to J hook
Row 23, 24, 25, 26: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, bpdc in next stitch, [fpdc, bpdc] in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3. (26 dc)
End off.

Top of Mitt
Using tail from beginning chain, tie ends of top edge together to make thumbhole.
Attach yarn to top of mitt at edge.
With H hook
Rows 1-3
: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), sc around, slip stitch to beg ch (27 sc)
With G hook
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as a dc), turn, skip first dc, dc in all other stitches, sl st to top of first ch 3 (27 dc)
Row 5: Ch 1 (does not count as sc), from wrong side fpsc around, slip stitch to beg ch (27 sc)

Thumb
With G hook, working around thumb opening
Row 1: Working in between stitches, sc2 tog, sc around to last two spaces, sc2tog (16 sc)
Row 2. Ch 1, .sc2 tog, sc around to last two stitches, sc2tog (14 sc)

*NOTE ON WORKING INTO BACK BUMP:
Working in the back bump of the chain gives you a regular stitch edge on the raw edge of your work.
If you look at the top of your chain, the top is the V-shaped stitch that you work your crochet stitches into.
If you turn it over, the bottom is a single loop between the V on top, aka, the bump.
So if you work into that bump, the V on the other side will become the edge of your mitt, and will give you the stitches to work into when you come back to work the top edge. If you don’t work into it, it’ll give you a finished edge.

 

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